If walls could talk, the ones inside the vaults of the chq building would probably hum a few sea shanties. Once known as Stack A, this stunning piece of industrial architecture stored tobacco, wine, and spirits awaiting inspection next door at the Custom House. Today, those same vaults house EPIC The Irish Emigration Museum, where Ireland’s emigrant stories come alive — right on Dublin’s main artery, the River Liffey.
The Miracle Ship
Docked just outside EPIC, you’ll find the legendary Jeanie Johnston, bobbing on the water. A replica of the 19th-century famine ship, she stands as a powerful reminder of the one million Irish who left the island during the Great Famine, an Gorta Mór, seeking new lives across the Atlantic. But Jeanie was no ordinary famine ship — she was legendary for a reason. Take a tour and find out exactly why!
In 2010, I had the honour (and mild terror) of sailing aboard the Jeanie Johnston myself, as part of a small crew bringing her from Belfast to her berth outside EPIC. The sea was wild, the wind was fierce, and I discovered that my sea legs were… shall we say still in training? But it was a once-in-a-lifetime adventure — and I’m proud to say I too survived the legendary Jeanie Johnston! However, I was very happy to have both feet firmly back on dry land afterwards.
A Walk To Remember
Luckily for you, Jeanie is now permanently docked — so you can explore her decks, hear her stories, and leave without needing a steadying handrail. When you step back onto terra firma, take a short stroll down the quays to the powerful Famine Sculptures by artist Rowan Gillespie.
Having learned about the famine at EPIC and aboard the Jeanie, these figures will strike a meaningful chord. The sculptures mark the end of the National Famine Way, a 165km (or 167km, depending who you talk to!) trail from Strokestown, Roscommon to Dublin — the same path many Irish people once took in search of a better life overseas. I walked the full route, as part of a group, over six days in 2019. It was an unforgettable experience (and, yes, I had very sore feet after).
Before you finish your day, head to the Dublin Discovered river tour boats next to Jeanie. They’ll take you on a cruise up the Liffey, sharing stories of Dublin from a whole new angle. You’ve probably walked over the famous O’Connell Bridge — now’s your chance to glide under it!
